Rock & Tree

“I suppose some may see this as a rather bleak shot, but the mood perfectly fits this cold foggy morning. On these mornings, I’m am always drawn to the amazing shapes of the trees and their starkness against the fog, and in this case the juxtaposition of the rock gave the whole landscape a primeval quality.” — Michael Regnier

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I should tell you, I briefly considered scrapping this post, as I’m sure it’s going to bring out the doomsayers among my readership, but that’s ok, the conversation needs to be had.

I came across an interesting article in Business Week Magazine last week that I thought perfectly captured the threshold on which the wine world, and France in particular finds itself today. It’s worth a read, but for the purposes of my point, let me summarize some key facts laid out in the article:

1. 4000 or so lesser known Bordeaux producers have gone out of business since the early 1990s.
2. Exports of Bordeaux are below their levels in the early 1990s, and they fell a dramatic 17% between 1998 and 2005.

This is the reality of the French wine market in which this story takes place. The story itself is as simple as it is scandalous to some: Bordeaux winemakers are utilizing chemical analysis of their wine to determine what actions they should take before and during harvest, as well as through the winemaking process. These steps can be as common as leaf thinning to allow more sun on the grapes in order to get them riper, to more unusual techniques like heating the grapes before crushing them, as well as presumably oak programs, blending, and chapatalization (the addition of sugar to the wine — a common technique in some regions of France).

The goal of all this? To make better tasting wines that sell both in France and abroad.

It’s at this point that the anti-wine-globalization protesters start banging on their screens.

“See,” they yell, “we told you that every wine is going to end up tasting the same because of Robert Parker and technology and capitalism!” And I have to bite my knuckles to keep from slapping them upside the head.

There is a great fear of technology in the wine world, and some sort of fucked-up uber-romanticism that exists out there for a lot of people - the notion that the use of technology in the winemaking process somehow “spoils the magic” or worse, results in wines that are somehow “unnatural” or “manipulated.” These folks are usually the ones that also claim that the strict appellation system in France is the last bastion of “quality assurance” that keeps the whole country from plunging into an abyss of winemaking that would result in every French wine tasting like Turley Zinfandel.

In case you’re interested in some thoughts along these lines, I’d suggest a look at a recent blog post by Eric Asimov (which yielded so many comments that he’s posted a follow-up here), and one of several discussions about France’s appellation system here on Vinography.

But back to this article. Without repeating the technology vs. no technology arguments that you will find articulated in the links I’ve just provided, what I find so explicitly clear in this article is the presentation of the economic and market realities that these winemakers in France are facing.

These realities are the perfect “test case” if you will for the benefits of technology in winemaking. Which is to say if thousands of winemakers are losing their livelihoods because no one is buying their wine, then when one of them makes his wine differently and then all of a sudden his wines start to sell, that’s a pretty clear message.

And that is exactly what has happened to the winemaker in this story. He made wine the “traditional” way for years and nearly went out of business. Now he’s making a different wine and it’s selling like hotcakes. The difference was taking a technological approach to his winemaking.

So the real question worth exploring here can be stated this way: did this guy make BETTER wine as a result of what he did.

I would argue yes, because it sold. People bought it, liked it, and bought some more, and now this guy can make a living as a winemaker and winegrower where before, that was in serious jeopardy.

But there are many people who would argue quite the opposite. They would suggest that his “lighter, fruitier” Bordeaux is a bastard product of the globalization of wine. Oh, yes, and I forgot, also a technologically created monstrosity: a “manipulated” wine that is most certainly the opposite of “natural.”

Most of the folks who offer such assessments, however, never manage to suggest what that winemaker ought to be doing in order to make a living, though. I find that those who most strongly adhere to the tenets of “natural winemaking” or “non-interventionalist” winemaking are least likely to admit that wine is a consumer product made by people who are trying to make enough money to feed their kids and live a good life.

The wine world is currently stuck between two eras, the pre-industrial era, and the future, whatever it may be. We do not have well-developed tools to think (as consumers or as critics) about what and how much technology helps to make a good wine better, and what or how much technology obliterates the goodness that all wine lovers seek in wine.

I do know that every major, old-guard wine critic I know shares the opinion that there is significantly more good wine being made now than there was 30 years ago. Some of that is due to new producers, but a lot of that is due to many people just making better wine, and a lot of that has to do with technology.

At the end of the day, mostly what I wish is that people (myself included) would just shut up about all this stuff and taste the damn wine. If it’s good we should buy it. If it is not, we should not.

Read the article. Then everyone vote with your palate.

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Syrah is, and has always been the star of the Rhone, so it is not surprising that it reigned supreme at this past weekend’s Rhone Rangers wine tasting, but there are dozens of other interesting Rhone varietals that are slowly being figured out by California winegrowers, many of which are excellent wines and often phenomenal values.

This past Sunday, along with 800 or so of my closest friends I tasted my way through the wines on offer at the annual tasting offered by the organization devoted to promoting Rhone style wines in the Western United States. For any of you unfamiliar with Rhone-style wines, these are wines made from one (or often several) varietals common to that region of France:

WHITE: Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul, Bourboulenc, and several other lesser known varietals.

RED: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignane, Cinsault, Cunoise, Petite Sirah, and several others.

One of the most diverse and exciting groups of varietals, Rhone style wines are among some of the most food friendly in the world, and have a special place in my heart.

So it is with pleasure and anticipation every year that I sample another vintage of California’s continuing exploration and evolution of these wines.

My impressions this year are not unlike many from previous years. On the red front, It’s clear we’ve figured out how to grow Syrah and grow it well. There are a huge number of both regional and individual styles developing for Syrah, from peppery to the lean and mineral, to the lush and fruit driven wines that can sport some serious alcohol levels. Apart from Syrah, it’s clear to me that there is enormous potential for Grenache in the state, but not enough people are taking it seriously as a varietal. An increasing number of people are making excellent Mourvedre, and those who are making red blends from the main varieties, as well as some of the lesser known, are delivering some of the best value wines in California, in my opinion.

When it comes to white wines, however, it’s clear that only a select few winemakers have really figured out how to grow and make good single varietal whites or the classic white blends in the Rhone style. Those who do it well can do it spectacularly, but there is a lot of mediocre and even downright bad single-varietal Marsanne and Roussane wines out there. It seems to me that most winemakers would be better served making white blends with these varietals. Perhaps one way of expressing my sense of things might be to say that most of the time I’m just as happy to drink a really good California Syrah as I am one from the Northern Rhone, but given the choice between a California Viognier and any white wine from the Rhone, I’m gonna go with the French wine every time.

In any case, there are many excellent wines to be had out there for those of us who love this style. Here are my notes from the tasting.

WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE OF 9.5
2005 Peay Vineyards Viognier, Sonoma Coast. $35
2005 Renard Viognier, Sonoma. $22 Where to Buy?

RED WINES WITH A SCORE OF 9.5
2004 J.C. Cellars Syrah, Rockpile Vineyard. $50 Where to Buy?
2002 Kathryn Kennedy Winery Reserve Syrah, Maridon Vyd., Santa Cruz Mountains. $85
2003 L’Aventure Winery Estate Syrah, Paso Robles. $50 Where to Buy?
2005 Outpost Wines Grenache, Howell Mountain (barrel sample). $40
2004 Outpost Wines Petite Sirah, “The Other” Howell Mountain. $50 Where to Buy?
2004 Peay Vineyards “La Bruma” Syrah, Sonoma Coast. $45 Where to Buy?
2004 Peay Vineyards “Les Titans” Syrah, Sonoma Coast. $45 Where to Buy?
2005 Rosenblum Cellars Petite Sirah, Pickett Road, Napa Valley. $35. Where to Buy?
2002 Saddleback Cellars Syrah, Rutherford. $n/a
2004 Tablas Creek Vineyard Mourvedre. $35. Where to Buy?
2005 Venge Vineyards Syrah, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma (barrel Sample). $48

WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 and 9.5
2005 McCrea Cellars Roussanne, Ciel du Cheval Vyd, Red Mountain. $20
2005 Peay Vineyards Marsanne/Rousanne Blend, Sonoma Coast. $35
2005 Renard Roussanne, Santa Ynez Valley. $22
2005 Tablas Creek Vineyard “Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc” White Blend. $28
2005 Twisted Oak Winery “*%#&@!” White Blend (Roussanne/Marsanne), El Dorado County. $24
2005 Vinum Cellars Viognier, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito County. $25

RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 and 9.5
2004 Arger Martucci Petite Sirah. $60
2002 Ballentine Vineyards Old Vines Estate Grown Syrah, Napa. $25
2003 Ballentine Vineyards Betty’s Vineyard Estate Grown Syrah, Napa. $22
2004 Cline Cellars Small Berry Mourvedre, Contra Costa County. $36
2003 Clos Saron Syrah, “Sacré Bleu” Red Blend, Sierra Foothills. $35
2005 Copain Wine Cellars Syrah, Thompson Vineyard, Santa Barbara County. $??
2005 Copain Wine Cellars Syrah, McDowell Vineyard, McDowell Valley. $??
2005 Copain Wine Cellars Syrah, Hawkes Butte Vineyard, Yorkville Highlands. $??
2003 L’Aventure Winery “Cote a Cote” Red Blend, Paso Robles. $50
2003 Michel-Schlumberger Estate Syrah, Dry Creek Valley. $??
2005 Olson Ogden Wines Unti Vineyard Syrah, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma. $35
2005 Peay Vineyards “La Bruma” Syrah, Sonoma Coast. $45 2005 Peay Vineyards “Les Titans” Syrah, Sonoma Coast. $45
2005 Renard Unti Vineyard Grenache, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma. $35
2004 Rosenblum Cellars “Kick Reserve” Syrah, Sonoma County. $25
2004 Rosenblum Cellars “hillside Vineyards” Syrah, Sonoma County. $25
2005 Rosenblum Cellars “Rominger Vineyard” Syrah, Yolo County. $25
2004 Rosenblum Cellars Syrah, Santa Barbara County. $18
2004 Spicerack Vineyards “Rack & Roll” Single Vineyard Syrah, Paso Robles “East Side”. $25
2004 Tablas Creek Vineyard “Esprit de Beaucastel” Red Blend. $45
2004 Tablas Creek Vineyard Syrah. $28 2005 Tallulah Wines “Shake Ridge Vineyard” Syrah, Amador County. $30
2005 Tallulah Wines “Les Trois Voix” Shake Ridge Vineyard Red Blend, Amador County. $30
2005 Terry Hoage Vineyards “The Hedge-Estate” Syrah. $45
2005 Terry Hoage Vineyards “The 46″ Red Blend (50% Grenache-50% Syrah). $40
2005 Venge Vineyards Syrah, Napa Valley (barrel sample). $40

WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE OF 9
2005 McCrea Cellars “Ciel du Cheval Vyd” Viognier, Red Mountain. $21
2005 Michaud Marsanne, Chalone. $38
2005 Tablas Creek Vineyard Roussanne. $22
2005 Saddleback Cellars “Clarksburg” Viognier. $23
2005 Tablas Creek Vineyard Grenache Blanc. $27 2006 Terry Hoage Vineyards Dry Grenache Rose. $20
2006 Unti Vineyards Winery Estate Rose, Dry Creek Valley Sonoma. $18

RED WINES WITH A SCORE OF 9
2005 A Donkey and Goat “Three Thirteen” Red Blend. $37
2004 Ballentine Vineyards Estate Petite Sirah Field Blend, Napa. $35
2004 Beckmen Vineyards Syrah, Purisima Mountain. $40
2004 Cedarville Vineyard Estate Syrah. $25
2004 Cline Cellars Ancient Vines Carignan, Contra Costa County. $18
2003 Clos Saron “Holy Moly!” Red Blend, Sierra Foothills. $35
2005 Copain Wine Cellars Garys’ Vineyard Syrah, Santa Lucia Highlands. $??
2004 CORE “Hardcore” Red Blend, Santa Barbara County. $29
2005 CORE Alta Mesa Vineyard Grenache, Santa Barbara County. $38
2005 Eaglepoint Ranch Grenache, Mendocino County. $28
2004 Edmunds St. John “Rocks And Gravel” Red Blend. $18
2001 Edmunds St. John “Wylie-Fenaughty” Syrah. $30
2004 G. Graham Wines Crimson Hill Vineyard Syrah, Red Hills. $20
2003 Kathryn Kennedy Winery Syrah, Santa Cruz Mountains. $32
2004 Landmark Vineyards “Steel Plow” Syrah, Sonoma Valley. $27
2004 Martinelli Winery “Terra Felice” Syrah, Sonoma. $45
2001 Michaud Syrah, Chalone. $38
2004 Michaud Syrah, Chalone. $38
2003 Morgan Winery “Tierra Mar” Syrah, Monterey County. $42
2005 Novy Family Winery Gary’s Vineyard Syrah, Santa Lucia Highlands. $33
2004 Provisor Syrah, Dry Creek Valley. $36
2003 Renard Syrah, Cappelli Ranch - El Dorado. $25
2003 Renard Syrah, Santa Rita Hills. $25
2003 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Red Blend. $30
2002 Ridge Vineyards Lytton Estate Petite Sirah. $36
2003 Rockblock Cellars / Domaine Serene Syrah, Del Rio Vineyard, Rouge Valley. $40
2004 San Sakana Alta Mesa Vineyard Mourvedre, Santa Maria Valley. $??
2005 San Sakana White Hawk Syrah, Santa Barbara. $??
2004 Tallulah Wines Del Rio Vineyard Syrah, Oregon. $30
2004 Terlato Family Vineyards Syrah, Dry Creek Valley. $35
2003 Tin Barn Vineyards Syrah, Sonoma Coast. $32
2004 Tin Barn Vineyards Syrah, Sonoma Coast. $32
2005 Vinum Cellars “PETS” Petite Sirah, Wilson Vineyard, Clarksburg. $14
2002 Zefina “Serience Red” Red Blend, Alder Ridge Vyd. $30

WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 and 9
2005 Twisted Oak Winery Viognier, Calaveras County. $22
2005 San Sakana “Catie’s Corner Vineyard” Viognier, Russian River Valley. $??
2005 Cline Cellars Marsanne, Sonoma County. $20
2006 Eaglepoint Ranch Albarino, Mendocino County (barrel sample). $20
2005 Edmunds St. John “Shell And Bone” White Blend, Paso Robles. $20
2005 Marilyn Remark Rose de Saignee. $22
2006 Rosenblum Cellars “Kathy’s Cuvee” Viognier. $18
2005 Rosenblum Cellars Roussanne, Santa Barbara County. $18
2006 A Donkey and Goat “Isabel’s Cuvee” Rose. $18
2006 Clos Saron “Carte Blanche” White Blend, Sierra Foothills. $20

RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 and 9
2005 San Sakana Las Madres Vineyard Syrah, Carneros. $??
2004 Arger Martucci Syrah. $30
2005 Ballentine Vineyards Fig Tree Vineyard Petite Sirah, Napa. $35
2005 Beckmen Vineyards Grenache, Purisima Mountain. $40
2004 Beckmen Vineyards Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley. $22
2005 Cedarville Vineyard Estate Grenache. $25
2004 Cedarville Vineyard “Naylor Vineyard” Petite Sirah. $25
2004 Cline Cellars Syrah, Los Carneros. $32
2004 Cline Cellars Ancient Vines Mourvedre, Contra Costa County. $18
2005 L’Hiver (Copain) Syrah. $18
2004 CORE “Mister Morived” Mourvedre, Santa Barbara County. $42
2006 Eaglepoint Ranch Grenache, Mendocino County (barrel sample). $28
2004 Eaglepoint Ranch Syrah, Mendocino County. $20
2005 Eaglepoint Ranch Syrah, Mendocino County (barrel sample). $20
2004 Four Vines Winery “The Peasant” Red Rhone Blend. $30
2005 G. Graham Wines Crimson Hill Vineyard Syrah, Red Hills. $28
2004 Justin Vineyard & Winery “Savant,” Red Blend (Syrah/Cabernet). $40
2005 Kokomo Wines Petite Sirah, North Coast. $25
2005 Landmark Vineyards “Steel Plow” Syrah, Sonoma Valley. $27
2004 McCrea Cellars “Sirocco” Red Blend (Grenache,Mourvedre,Syrah,Counoise). $28
2004 McCrea Cellars “Ciel du Cheval” Syrah, Red Mountain. $48
2003 McCrea Cellars “Cuvee Orleans” Syrah, Yakima Valley, Washington. $48
2005 McCrea Cellars “Amerique” Syrah, Yakima Valley, Washington. $45
2002 Michaud Syrah, Chalone. $38
2003 Michaud Syrah, Chalone. $38
2003 Michel-Schlumberger Red Blend, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma. $18
2004 Morgan Winery “Cotes du Crow’s” Red Blend (Grenache/Syrah). $18
2005 Novy Family Winery “Judge Family Vineyard” Grenache, . $32
2005 Novy Family Winery Rosella’s Vineyard Syrah, Santa Lucia Highlands. $33
2005 Olson Ogden Wines Syrah, Sonoma County. $25
2003 Renard “Truchard Vineyard” Syrah, Carneros. $25
2005 Ridge Vineyards “Buchignani Ranch” Carignan. $26
2003 Rocca Family Vineyards Estate Syrah, Yountville, Napa Valley. $42
2004 Rocinante Syrah, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma. $35
2003 Rockblock Cellars / Domaine Serene Syrah, 7 Hills, Walla Walla, Washington. $40
2005 Rosenblum Cellars “Heritage Clones” Petite Sirah, San Francisco Bay. $18
2004 Tablas Creek Vineyard “Cotes de Tablas” Red Blend. $22
2006 Tablas Creek Vineyard Rose. $18
2004 Tallulah Wines Syrah, Sonoma Coast. $28
2005 Terry Hoage Vineyards “The Pick” Red Blend (50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 17% Mourvedre, 8% Counoise). $38
2003 Twisted Oak Winery Syrah, Calaveras County. $24
2004 Twisted Oak Winery “Tanner Vineyard” Syrah, Calaveras County. $32
2005 Vie Winery “L’Imaginaire” (The Imaginary One) Grenache, Santa Barbara County. $39
2004 Vinum Cellars “Red Dirt Red” Red Blend (Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache). $30

WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE OF 8.5 2005
Cedarville Vineyard Estate Viognier. $20
2005 G. Graham Wines Bartolucci Vineyard Viognier. $20
2005 Cline Cellars Viognier, California. $14
2006 Beckmen Vineyards Rose of Grenache. $16
2005 San Sakana “Broken Leg Vineyard” Viognier, Anderson Valley. $??
2005 Tablas Creek Vineyard “Cotes de Tablas Blanc” White Blend. $22
2005 Tablas Creek Vineyard Picpoul Blanc. $22
2005 Vie Winery “Round River Ranch” Roussanne, Lake County. $29
2005 CORE Rose, Santa Barbara County. $14

RED WINES WITH A SCORE OF 8.5
2005 A Donkey and Goat “Broken Leg Vineyard” Syrah, $42
2005 Beckmen Vineyards “Cuvee Le Bec” Red Blend. $16
2005 Cline Cellars “Cashmere” GSM Blend. $18
2005 CORE “Turchi” Syrah, Santa Barbara County. $14
2005 CORE Red Blend (Mourvedre, Grenache, Syrah), Santa Barbara County. $??
2004 Eaglepoint Ranch Petite Sirah, Mendocino County. $26
2004 Four Vines Winery “Anarchy” Rhone Blend. $30
2004 Four Vines Winery “Bailey Vineyard” Syrah. $30
2004 Four Vines Winery “Heretic” Petite Sirah. $30
2005 G. Graham Wines Syrah, Napa. $20
2005 Kokomo Wines “Green Pastures Vineyard” Syrah, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma. $22
2005 Marilyn Remark “Loma Pacific Vineyard” Marsanne, Monterey County. $30
2004 Marilyn Remark “Arroyo Loma Vineyard” Syrah, Monterey County. $36
2004 Marilyn Remark “Wild Horse Road Vineyard” Grenache, Monterey County. $45
2004 Marilyn Remark “Roads End Vineyard” Petite Sirah, Monterey County. $28
2005 McCrea Cellars “Ciel du Cheval” Mourvedre, Red Mountain. $28
2003 Morgan Winery Syrah, Monterey. $22
2005 Novy Family Winery Syrah, Sonoma County. $19
2003 Renard “Unti Vineyard Syrah”, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma. $25
2005 Twisted Oak Winery Grenache, Calaveras County. $24
2005 Twisted Oak Winery “*%#&@!” Red Blend (Mourvedre/Syrah/Grenache), Calaveras County. $24
2004 Unti Vineyards Winery Estate Syrah, Dry Creek Valley. $26
2005 Vie Winery Las Madres Vineyard Syrah, Carneros. $39
2005 Vie Winery “Les Amours” (Lovers) Syrah, Santa Barbara County. $39
2005 Vie Winery “L’Intruse” (The Intruder) Mourvedre, Santa Barbara County. $39
2005 Vie Winery “L’Etranger” (The Stranger) Red Blend, Sonoma County. $39

WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 and 8.5
2005 Beckmen Vineyards “Le Bec Blanc” White Blend. $20
2006 Clos Saron “Tickled Pink” Rose, Sierra Foothills. $18
2005 CORE White Blend (Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc), Santa Barbara County. $21
2005 Rockblock Cellars / Domaine Serene Viognier, Rouge Valley. $35
2005 Arrowood Vineyards & Winery “Cote de Lune Blanc” Saralee’s Vineyard White Blend, Russian River Valley. $??

RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 and 8.5
2002 Edmunds St. John “The Shadow” Syrah. $12
2004 Four Vines Winery “The Phoenix” Syrah. $40
2004 Justin Vineyard & Winery Syrah, Paso Robles. $32
2005 McCrea Cellars Syrah, Washington State. $32
2003 Unti Vineyards Winery Estate Syrah, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma. $24
2004 Unti Vineyards Winery “Benchland Reserve” Syrah, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma. $42

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