A grape that some wine geeks love to diss, Cabernet Franc can make a wonderful wine when it’s grown in the right soil. Try a good Chinon and you’ll need no further persuasion.

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Red fruit and a distinct, earthy red-clay minerality in a good, typical Loire Cabernet Franc, perhaps not for those who insist on fruit-forward wines.

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Good young Chinon, enjoyable and interesting now, but it would be well worth setting some aside for the cellar.

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