So many modern Zinfandels are ramped up with high-octane, almost liquorish intensity that they’ve come to seem more like a cocktail than an accompaniment with dinner for me. With a few glorious exceptions.

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It’s a big boy, but the clean, fresh and exuberant expression of “bramble” berry fruit takes me back to Zin the way it used to be.

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With few exceptions, as the metal screwcap gained traction in the fine-wine world, they were associated with less expensive wines. But that’s changing.

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